Cost guide · Bath remodel · Arizona
Bathroom Remodel Costs in Phoenix, AZ (2026)
Phoenix homeowners typically pay $10,330 – $25,825 for a midrange full-bath remodel — new tile, vanity, top and fixtures with the layout left where it is. Scope is the lever, and two things move the number here that do not move it elsewhere: almost every Valley house sits on a concrete slab, so relocating a drain is saw-cutting rather than floor demolition, and the water is hard enough that it decides what your finished bathroom looks like in five years. Here's the local math, scope by scope.
Phoenix, AZ typical · midrange remodel · Midrange remodel
$10,330 – $25,825
Key takeaways
- $10,330 – $25,825 is the typical all-in range for a midrange full-bath remodel in Phoenix, AZ — new surfaces and fixtures, same layout.
- Scope sets your tier; finishes only move you inside it — the table below prices a refresh, a midrange remodel and a full gut as separate projects, because that is what they are.
- Moving plumbing is the expensive decision, and in the Valley it usually means cutting concrete. Most metro-Phoenix houses are slab-on-grade with the drain lines cast into the slab, so relocating a toilet or shower drain means saw-cutting the floor, trenching, re-piping, backfilling and pouring — then an inspection. That is why a "small" layout change so often prices like a gut.
- Hard water is what decides how the room looks in five years. The City of Phoenix's own 2025 water quality report puts total hardness in the distribution system at 172 to 302 ppm — 10 to 17.6 grains per gallon — which is hard to very hard on the USGS scale. It is the reason clear glass hazes, polished finishes spot, and water heaters and valves in the Valley rarely reach the service lives published for them nationally.
- A tub-to-shower conversion is a mainstream project here, not a niche one. Between the retirement population and a housing stock that is overwhelmingly single-story, walk-in and curbless showers, grab-bar blocking and comfort-height fixtures are ordinary requests in metro Phoenix. The conversion carries its own band in the table below rather than being priced as a discounted remodel.
- Phoenix prices just under the national baseline: the RSMeans City Cost Index composite we use for this metro sits about 1.5% below the national average — a high-volume Sun Belt market — and every range on this page is localized by that multiplier before you read it.
Phoenix bathroom remodel costs at a glance
Typical midrange remodel range · installed · Phoenix, AZ · Midrange remodel
$10,330 – $25,825
Stock vanity, keep the layoutMost Phoenix remodelsCustom tile, moved plumbing
If three bids on the same bathroom came back thousands apart, the usual explanation is not dishonesty — it is that the three contractors priced three different projects. One kept the shower where it was, one moved it, one assumed the slab would not have to be opened. The range above is the typical span for a midrange remodel at this scope, before your home's specifics — use it to interrogate the bids, not to replace them.
A refresh, a gut renovation and a tub-to-shower conversion are priced separately in the next section, because a bathroom project's cost is set by what you are doing to the room rather than by how the room is finished. In this metro the conversion row is the one to read closely: it is the most common way a Valley bathroom changes, and it is a different project rather than a smaller one.
The two finish decisions the Valley's water makes for you
Cost is one axis, and the ranges elsewhere on this page are where it belongs. This is the other one, and in Phoenix it is unusually consequential. The city's water is hard — mineral-rich enough that every wet surface in the room is on a slow clock — so the two choices that decide whether the bathroom still looks new in five years are what you enclose the shower with and what finish you hang on the walls. Here are the realistic options for each, answering the same four questions: what it is good at, what you give up, how long it lasts, and what it asks of you afterwards.
Frameless clear glass shower enclosure
- Good at
- The finish that makes a small bathroom read as a large one — an uninterrupted sightline to the tile, no metal frame collecting grime, and the only enclosure that lets a curbless or oversized walk-in shower actually look like one. Heavy tempered panels feel like architecture rather than like a fixture, and there is no track along the floor to clean.
- What you give up
- This is where Phoenix water shows up first and most visibly. Every drop that dries on clear glass leaves its minerals behind, and once that scale has etched into the surface it is a permanent haze rather than a cleaning problem — the panel is replaced, not restored. A factory-applied protective coating slows it down and is worth specifying, but coatings are consumable and the manufacturer's warranty almost always assumes you are squeegeeing. Frameless also means no frame to hide an out-of-plumb wall, so it is the least forgiving option in an older or settled house.
- Typical lifespan
- InterNACHI's life-expectancy chart gives shower doors about 20 years and a shower enclosure or module about 50. Read the door figure as the honest one here: the glass itself effectively never wears out, and what ends its life in a hard-water market is the etched surface rather than any failure of the panel.
- Upkeep
- A squeegee after every use is not a suggestion in this metro — it is the whole maintenance plan, and it is the difference between glass that lasts decades and glass that hazes in a few years. Re-apply or renew the coating on the manufacturer's schedule, and keep abrasive pads off it entirely.
Framed or semi-frameless glass, textured or treated
- Good at
- Forgiving in exactly the ways frameless is not. The frame absorbs an out-of-square opening, the panels are thinner and lighter, and it is the least expensive way to get a glass enclosure at all. The real Phoenix argument, though, is optical: reeded, rain, fluted and acid-etched glass break up the surface, so mineral spotting that would read as a haze on a clear panel largely disappears into the texture.
- What you give up
- You give up the sightline — a frame is a line across the room, and texture trades transparency for privacy whether or not you wanted privacy. The bottom track and the frame corners are the two places that collect scale and soap residue, and they are fiddly to clean. Textured glass also hides spotting rather than preventing it: the minerals are still depositing, and a neglected panel will eventually cloud even where the pattern conceals it.
- Typical lifespan
- The same InterNACHI shower-door figure applies — roughly 20 years — but the failure here is usually mechanical rather than optical: rollers, guides and the seal along the bottom rail wear out and are replaceable, and the panel outlives them.
- Upkeep
- Squeegee the same way, and pay attention to the track: clear the weep holes so it drains, and re-caulk the frame-to-tile joint when it discolors. Manufacturers of coated and treated glass are specific about which cleaners void the treatment — read that sheet before someone brings a scouring product into the room.
Polished chrome fixtures and hardware
- Good at
- The default for a reason. Chrome is the hardest, most chemically stable common fixture finish, it is carried in every line at every price point, and replacement parts and matching accessories are easy to find years later. It is also the most forgiving finish to repair around: a chrome trim kit exists for almost any valve.
- What you give up
- It is a mirror, and hard water is what mirrors show. Every dried droplet is a visible white spot, so a polished chrome faucet and showerhead in the Valley look dirty within a day or two of not being wiped — not damaged, just spotted. Left alone long enough, the deposits build into scale that has to be dissolved rather than wiped, and aerators and shower heads clog from the inside.
- Typical lifespan
- InterNACHI puts faucets and spray hoses at 15 to 20 years and shower heads at 100 years and up — with the explicit qualifier "if not clogged by minerals or other deposits." That parenthesis is the Phoenix story in a single line: the metal is not what gives out, the mineral is.
- Upkeep
- Dry the fixture after use if you want it to look new, and de-scale the aerator and shower head on a schedule with a manufacturer-approved descaler. Never a scouring pad, and never a bathroom cleaner the fixture maker warns against — that is how a chrome finish gets clouded permanently.
Brushed and matte finishes
- Good at
- The pragmatic Phoenix answer. A brushed, satin or matte surface scatters light instead of reflecting it, so a mineral spot has nothing to contrast against and simply is not visible from across the room. On modern fixtures these are usually physical-vapor-deposition finishes, which are notably hard and are the reason brushed nickel and matte black have become the default specification in hard-water markets rather than a style preference.
- What you give up
- There is more variation between manufacturers than the swatch names suggest, so "brushed nickel" from two brands rarely matches — commit to one line across the room, or accept a mismatch you will notice forever. Some older or budget brushed finishes are living finishes that wear at the touch points on purpose, which is a look you either want or do not. And hiding the spotting is not the same as preventing the scale: the inside of the valve does not care what the outside looks like.
- Typical lifespan
- The same InterNACHI band — 15 to 20 years for faucets — with the chart's own caveat that plumbing-fixture quality varies dramatically and that some finishes need specific cleaning agents to reach their published service life. Treat the finish and the valve as two clocks; the valve cartridge is a wear part in hard water and is meant to be replaced.
- Upkeep
- Wipe with water and a soft cloth. The finish itself is close to maintenance-free visually, which is the point, but the internals still need the same de-scaling attention as any other fixture here — clean the aerator and the shower head on the same schedule you would give a polished one.
Lifespan and upkeep sources: InterNACHI — Standard Estimated Life Expectancy Chart for Homes · City of Phoenix Water Services — Water Quality Report (total hardness, aesthetic parameters) · City of Phoenix Water Services — Water Quality · USGS Water Science School — Hardness of Water · U.S. Access Board — ADA Accessibility Standards (608 shower compartments, 609 grab bars) · HomeAdvisor — Bathroom Remodel Cost guide · Angi — Tub-to-Shower Conversion Cost guide
What a bath remodel actually changes
The two conditions side by side — what is usually being torn out, and what gets built back. Typical of the projects this guide prices, not of any one house.
Rebuilding a bath that has outlived its waterproofing
- Grout and caulk lines that have opened, so water reaches the substrate behind the tile instead of running off it.
- A tub or surround set on a substrate installed before sheet and liquid waterproofing membranes were common behind tile.
- An exhaust fan that is undersized, or ducted into the attic instead of outside, so the room stays damp long after the shower stops.
- A waterproofed shower and tub surround — membrane or foam board behind the tile, not tile set straight onto drywall.
- An exhaust fan sized for the room and ducted to the outdoors, which is what keeps moisture from staying in the assembly.
- Layout and fixtures settled while the walls are open, which is the only point at which blocking for grab bars, a curbless entry or a moved drain costs what it should.
What changes: The room stops being a slow moisture problem, and the accessibility decisions that are expensive to retrofit get made while they are cheap.
Describes the condition typically being replaced and a down-to-the-substrate rebuild. It is not a record of one home, and no photograph here is of a specific project.
Sources: U.S. EPA — A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home · U.S. Department of Energy, Building America Solution Center — Bathroom Exhaust Fans · U.S. Access Board — ADA Accessibility Standards (608 shower compartments, 609 grab bars)
Cost by project scope
Typical installed range by scope, Phoenix, AZ. What you are doing to the room sets the row; how you finish it moves you within the row.
| Project scope | What it usually covers | Typical range |
|---|---|---|
| Refresh — tub and surround | New tub or surround, fixtures, paint and lighting. Layout untouched, walls stay closed, slab stays closed. | $3,099 – $10,330 |
| Midrange remodel (most common) | New tile, vanity, top, fixtures and floor — everything you see, with the plumbing left where it is. | $10,330 – $25,825 |
| Full gut renovation | Down to the studs: new layout, plumbing and electrical rough-in, slab work if drains move, inspections, everything replaced. | $25,825 – $82,640 |
| Tub-to-shower conversion — a different project, and a common one here | One tub out, a walk-in shower in, same footprint. Priced from its own band, not as a smaller remodel. | $1,240 – $15,495 |
The first three rows are one ladder: same room, progressively more of it replaced. The fourth row is not a fourth rung — a tub-to-shower conversion is a different kind of project in the same footprint, carrying its own band, which is why it can land under a refresh when it is a prefab kit and well above one when it is a tiled walk-in with new glass.
In metro Phoenix that fourth row deserves more of your attention than it would anywhere else. It is an ordinary request here rather than an accessibility special case, and the spread inside the band is wide because the phrase covers two very different jobs: dropping a prefab acrylic base and a framed door into the tub's existing alcove, or building a tiled walk-in with a linear drain, blocking in the walls for grab bars and a curb low enough — or absent enough — to roll into. The second one is a construction project. Get the conversion quoted as a specified scope, not as a phrase — base type, drain type, glass type, blocking, and whether the threshold is curbed, low-curb or curbless.
Where you fall inside any row is mostly the layout answer, and on a slab that answer is more expensive than it is elsewhere. Leave every fixture in place and you sit near the bottom of the tier; move the toilet or the shower drain and you take on saw-cutting the slab, trenching, new drain and vent work, backfill, a patch pour and an inspection — the work that quietly moves a midrange remodel into gut pricing.
What moves your number in Phoenix
Whether the plumbing moves — and whether that means opening the slab
Keeping every fixture where it is is the largest saving available in a bath project, and it is free. It is worth more here than in most metros, because most Valley houses are slab-on-grade: the drain lines are cast into the concrete, so relocating a toilet, tub or shower drain means saw-cutting the floor, trenching, re-piping, backfilling, pouring a patch and passing an inspection before anything decorative happens. A slab house also gives you far less freedom to nudge a fixture a foot to the left than a house over a crawlspace would. If you are undecided, have every contractor bid it both ways and price the slab work as its own line.
Hard water, and the finishes that have to live with it
The City of Phoenix's water quality report puts total hardness in the distribution system at roughly 172 to 302 ppm — 10 to 17.6 grains per gallon — and the city's own explanation is that hard water causes scaling in pipes and water heaters and on plumbing fixtures such as faucets and shower heads. On the USGS scale that is hard to very hard water. It rarely changes what a contractor bids, but it changes what you should be buying with the bid: coated or textured glass instead of bare clear glass, brushed or matte finishes instead of polished ones if you do not want to wipe fixtures daily, and a realistic expectation that valve cartridges, aerators and the water heater are wear parts on a shorter clock here than the national service-life charts assume.
Whether a water softener is part of the conversation
It is a whole-house decision made at the water entry or in the garage rather than a bathroom line item, which is exactly why it gets forgotten during a bath remodel and then regretted. If you are about to spend real money on glass, plated finishes and a new valve, the moment to price softening or conditioning is now, while a plumber is already scheduled. Ask about the discharge requirements for a regenerating softener before you commit — treatment and drain-discharge rules vary by municipality and by HOA across the Valley, so confirm yours rather than assuming.
Phoenix labor and materials
The RSMeans City Cost Index composite we apply for this metro sits about 1.5% below the national average — a high-volume Sun Belt market with a deep residential trade base — and every range on this page has already been localized by it. That is a market average, not your bid: a single crew's backlog moves a price further than the index does.
Aging in place, and what it actually adds
Curbless entry, a linear or offset drain, blocking in the walls for grab bars, a bench, comfort-height fixtures, a handheld on a slide bar and a lever handle are the standard list, and most of them are cheap while the walls are open and expensive afterwards. Blocking in particular costs almost nothing at framing and is the single most common regret — the ADA Accessibility Standards give the dimensional and structural expectations most designers work from, and even in a private home they are the reference worth handing your contractor. Curbless is the item with real cost attached: on a slab it means either recessing the slab under the shower or building the whole bathroom floor up to meet the drain fall.
The tract-home bathroom, and the older core
A large share of metro Phoenix is post-1990s tract housing, which is genuinely good news for pricing: the baths repeat, crews have done your exact layout dozens of times, and the surprises behind the wall are fewer. The older core is a different bid. Pre-1970s houses in central and south Phoenix, and the small-lot post-war stock, carry the usual list — dated supply piping, no vapor barrier where one is wanted now, undersized venting, a rotted subfloor or a soft spot around the toilet flange. None of it is visible at bid time. Ask each contractor in writing how they price what they find — allowance, unit rate, or change order.
Permits and inspections
Swapping fixtures like-for-like generally does not require a permit; adding, altering or relocating plumbing or electrical does, and the licensed trade pulls it. Metro Phoenix is not one jurisdiction — Phoenix, Scottsdale, Mesa, Chandler, Gilbert, Glendale, Tempe and Peoria each run their own building department — so the answer is your city's, not the Valley's. Ask each bidder to confirm in writing which permits their number includes and who is scheduling the inspections. Unpermitted bathroom work is a disclosure problem when you sell, not only a code one.
Fixture and surface tier
Finish level moves you within a row rather than between rows. A tiled walk-in with frameless glass, a stone top and a name-brand fixture set puts you at the top of your tier; a prefab surround, a stock vanity and builder-grade fixtures put you at the bottom of the same one.
How people pay for a bath remodel
A project in this range is more often paid for over time than out of savings, and the route you take changes what it ends up costing. These are the ones people actually use, and they are not interchangeable.
Where we stand: We are not a lender and we do not arrange, broker or earn anything from financing. Nothing here is an offer of credit or a recommendation — it is background on how projects this size are usually paid for, so you can ask better questions of the people bidding on yours.
- Credit the contractor arranges
- Many home-improvement firms can set up financing for the job at the point of sale, through a lender they already work with. The paperwork happens alongside the contract rather than at a bank.
- The tradeoff: It is the least comparable of the routes, because you usually see one option rather than several — and a plan sold as promotional can convert to ordinary interest, sometimes backdated to the start, if the balance is not cleared in time. Get the full terms in writing before the contract is signed, not after.
- Borrowing against the home
- A home equity loan is a fixed amount taken as a lump sum; a home equity line of credit (HELOC) is a revolving line you draw on. The FTC describes both as second mortgages when you already have a first one.
- The tradeoff: Your house is the collateral, so falling behind puts the home itself at risk — this is the route with the most serious downside and it belongs on a list with the others precisely so that is visible. Federal law gives you until midnight of the third business day to cancel credit secured by your home.
- An unsecured personal loan
- A fixed sum from a bank, credit union or online lender, repaid on a schedule, with nothing pledged against it. Nothing about the loan is tied to the project, so the money is yours to spend on whichever bid you accept.
- The tradeoff: Unsecured credit costs more than credit backed by an asset, and what you are offered depends on your own credit history. The upside of the same fact is real: nobody can take the house over it.
- Manufacturer and utility programs
- Product manufacturers run seasonal promotions through their certified installers, and utilities and state energy offices run rebate and low-cost loan programs for efficiency work. Both are worth asking about because both are invisible unless you do.
- The tradeoff: They are conditional and they expire — tied to particular products, particular efficiency ratings, an application filed before the work starts, or a window of dates. A promotion is a reason to check eligibility, never a reason to choose a contractor.
What to ask every bidder
- Who actually lends the money, and are you paid anything for placing it?The firm selling the work and the firm holding the debt are usually not the same company, and the answer tells you who to call when something goes wrong.
- What is the total I will have repaid by the end, in dollars?One number, comparable across every bid. The monthly payment is not comparable — it can be lowered by stretching the term, which raises the total.
- If this is a promotional plan, what happens if I have not paid it off when the promotion ends?Some plans charge the interest that accrued during the promotional period all at once. A firm that cannot answer this plainly, in writing, has told you something.
- What is the price if I pay without financing?If the two prices differ, the difference is part of what the credit costs. Ask for both on the same written quote, so the bids stay comparable.
Your bathroom isn't the average. Get your project's typical Phoenix range.
Five quick questions — scope, layout, timeline. Anonymous until you want bids.
Free · no phone number needed to see your range
Do bathroom remodels pay back at resale?
Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value data has consistently put a midrange bathroom remodel ahead of an upscale one on cost recouped — the money spent past the midrange tier is the money least likely to come back. Treat a bath project as something you are buying for the years you live with it, with a partial credit at resale, rather than as an investment.
The narrower Phoenix argument is condition rather than percentage: in a one-bathroom house, or where the only tub is failing, the work reads to a buyer as a defect fixed. A second or third bath brought up to date reads as taste, and taste is what buyers discount.
The one local wrinkle worth naming is the walk-in shower. In a market with as many single-story houses and as many buyers planning to stay put as this one, a well-built curbless or low-curb shower is closer to a functional feature than a personal preference — which is not a claim that it returns its cost, only that it is unusually unlikely to be held against you here. The conventional counsel still applies: keep at least one bathtub somewhere in the house.
Five ways Phoenix homeowners keep the number down
- Keep the plumbing where it is. On a slab this is the biggest lever on the page — the cheapest good bathroom in the Valley is the one whose drains never move.
- Have all three contractors price the same scope, not three different ones. A spread tells you nothing if one bid moved the shower and the others left it alone.
- If you are converting, decide prefab or tiled before you bid. "Tub-to-shower conversion" covers a kit dropped into the existing alcove and a tiled curbless walk-in with a linear drain and new glass. They are not the same job, and asking three crews to guess which one you meant is how you get a meaningless spread.
- Let the water pick the finish. Brushed and matte fixtures and textured or coated glass hide mineral spotting that clear glass and polished chrome put on display. In most fixture lines that is a specification choice rather than an upgrade, and it is the cheapest maintenance decision you will make in the room.
- Settle the change-order rule before demolition, in writing. In the older parts of the city what is behind the wall is the line item nobody bid — and if the slab has to be opened, what is under the floor is the other one.
Where these numbers come from
Methodology. A baseline range for each project scope is adjusted for your area by a Phoenix, AZ labor and materials multiplier. Both inputs are cited below, straight from the rows that produced the figures on this page. Ranges are typical costs, not quotes: your final price depends on your bathroom, what is behind its walls, and the bids you collect. Contractors cannot pay to change the numbers we publish.
This page's figures are priced from ZIP 85003, which resolves to Phoenix, AZ (multiplier ×1.033).
Baseline: Angi — Bathroom Remodel Cost (updated Jul 9, 2026), "Cost by Project Scope": Partial remodel = $10,000–$25,000 ("replacing at least one of the three main bathroom fixtures"). Mapped to the funnel's middle tier, "Midrange remodel".
Regional multiplier: Derived: BEA Regional Price Parities, all items, Phoenix-Mesa-Scottsdale, AZ (MSA) = 103.316 (2024) ÷ 100. Published metro price-level index (FRED series RPPALL38060) on the same national-is-1.000 scale the state tier uses; a consumer price-level proxy, not a construction cost index.
Figures retrieved: 2026-09-06
Phoenix bathroom remodel cost FAQs
What does a bathroom remodel cost in Phoenix in 2026?
Most Phoenix homeowners doing a midrange full-bath remodel land inside the typical range shown above — new tile, vanity, top and fixtures with the layout unchanged. A refresh sits below it and a full gut renovation above it; the scope table on this page prices each separately rather than averaging them into one number.
Why does moving the plumbing cost more in Phoenix than elsewhere?
Because of the slab. Most metro-Phoenix houses are built slab-on-grade with the drain lines cast into the concrete, so relocating a toilet, tub or shower drain is not a matter of opening a floor and re-routing pipe — it means saw-cutting the slab, trenching, re-piping, backfilling, pouring a patch and passing an inspection. There is no single figure for it, because it depends on how far the drain has to travel and what it runs into, but it is the most common reason a midrange remodel prices like a gut renovation. Have every contractor bid it both ways so you can see your own gap.
Does Phoenix's hard water really affect a bathroom remodel?
It affects what you should buy more than what it costs. The City of Phoenix's water quality report puts total hardness in the distribution system at roughly 172 to 302 ppm, or 10 to 17.6 grains per gallon — hard to very hard on the USGS scale — and the city's own guidance is that hard water causes scaling in pipes and water heaters and on fixtures like faucets and shower heads. In practice that means clear frameless glass will haze without a coating and a squeegee habit, polished chrome will spot within a day of not being wiped, and valve cartridges, aerators and water heaters are wear items on a shorter clock here than national service-life charts assume. None of that is a reason to avoid glass or chrome — it is a reason to choose them deliberately.
Should I add a water softener while the plumber is here?
It is worth pricing, and this is the natural moment to do it, because a softener is a whole-house install at the water entry or in the garage rather than a bathroom line item. The argument is that you are about to spend real money on glass, plated finishes and a new valve, all of which last longer and look better on softened water. Before you commit, ask about discharge requirements for a regenerating unit — treatment and drain rules vary by municipality and by HOA across the Valley, so confirm yours rather than assuming.
Is a tub-to-shower conversion cheaper than a remodel?
Usually, because it is a smaller project rather than a discounted version of a bigger one — it carries its own band in the scope table above. The band is wide because the phrase covers two different jobs: a prefab base and framed door dropped into the existing alcove sits at the low end, and a tiled walk-in with a linear drain, blocking for grab bars and new glass runs to the top of it and can pass a refresh entirely.
What does a curbless shower need on a slab house?
Fall to the drain, and somewhere to put it. On a slab-on-grade house that generally means either recessing the slab under the shower footprint so the pan can slope inside the depression, or building the bathroom floor up so the shower floor meets the rest of the room level — which then has to be transitioned at the doorway. Either way you also want a waterproofed pan, a linear or offset drain so the slope runs one direction, and blocking in the walls while they are open. The ADA Accessibility Standards are the usual dimensional reference for the entry, the seat and the grab bars; a private home is not required to follow them, but they are the clearest specification to hand a contractor.
Do I need a permit to remodel a bathroom in Phoenix?
Swapping fixtures like-for-like generally does not require a permit. Adding, altering or relocating plumbing or electrical does, and your licensed plumber or electrician pulls it and schedules the inspection. Confirm with the building department for your city rather than for the Valley — Phoenix, Scottsdale, Mesa, Chandler, Gilbert, Glendale, Tempe and Peoria are separate jurisdictions — and ask each bidder to confirm in writing which permits are included in their number.
Should I keep the bathtub?
Conventional resale advice is to keep at least one tub in the house, so if this is your only bathroom the case for a conversion is weaker. In a second or third bath — and in a market where a lot of owners are planning to stay in the house — the walk-in shower is almost always the more used fixture and the easier one to keep clean.
Bath remodel costs in nearby cities
Other Phoenix project costs
Keep reading
All guides →
Roof replacement costs in Phoenix, AZ (2026)
