Cost guide · Bath remodel · Florida

Bathroom Remodel Costs in Tampa, FL (2026)

Tampa homeowners typically pay $10,090 – $25,225 for a midrange full-bath remodel — new tile, vanity, top and fixtures with the layout left where it is. Scope is the lever, but two local facts decide whether that scope holds: what the humidity does to the room afterwards, and whether the fixtures are sitting on a concrete slab. Here's the local math, scope by scope.

By the Home Services Marketplace Cost Desk· Updated September 6, 2026· 24 min read

A tub-shower with white subway tile, a navy accent band, and matte black fixtures

Tampa, FL typical · midrange remodel · Midrange remodel

$10,090 – $25,225

Key takeaways

$10,090 – $25,225 is the typical all-in range for a midrange full-bath remodel in Tampa, FL — new surfaces and fixtures, same layout.
Scope sets your tier; finishes only move you inside it — the table below prices a refresh, a midrange remodel and a full gut as separate projects, because that is what they are.
Moving plumbing is the expensive decision, not the tile. In much of Tampa's postwar stock that means saw-cutting and re-pouring a concrete slab to reach the drain, rather than lifting a few floorboards — which is why a "small" layout change so often prices like a gut here.
Humidity is the durability question in this market — an exhaust fan sized to the room and ducted to the outside, and surfaces that tolerate being damp for most of the year, are what separate a bathroom that still looks new in a decade from one that does not.
Tampa prices a little under the national baseline: the RSMeans City Cost Index composite we use for this metro sits about 2.5% below the national average — a Sun Belt market with predominantly non-union residential trades — and every range on this page is localized by that multiplier before you read it.

Tampa bathroom remodel costs at a glance

Typical midrange remodel range · installed · Tampa, FL · Midrange remodel

$10,090 – $25,225

Stock vanity, keep the layoutMost Tampa remodelsCustom tile, moved plumbing

If three bids on the same bathroom came back thousands apart, the usual explanation is not dishonesty — it is that the three contractors priced three different projects. One kept the shower where it was, one moved it, one assumed the existing fan and the existing waterproofing would stay. The range above is the typical span for a midrange remodel at this scope, before your home's specifics — use it to interrogate the bids, not to replace them.

Tampa adds a question most metros do not force as hard: what the room has to survive. A bathroom here spends the year damp, and the parts that decide whether it holds up — the ventilation, the waterproofing behind the tile, the sealant at every change of plane — are the parts a homeowner never sees and a low bid is most likely to have quietly thinned.

A refresh, a gut renovation and a tub-to-shower conversion are priced separately in the next section, because a bathroom project's cost is set by what you are doing to the room rather than by how the room is finished.

The two surface decisions that carry the room

Cost is one axis, and the ranges elsewhere on this page are where it belongs. This is the other one. Two choices set the character and the upkeep of almost every bath project — what goes on the wet walls, and what goes on the vanity — so here are the realistic options for each, answering the same four questions: what it is good at, what you give up, how long it lasts, and what it asks of you afterwards. In a Gulf-coast bathroom, read the upkeep answer twice: it is the one that decides how the room ages.

Tiled wet walls

Good at: Fits any shape of room, any size of niche and any budget of design, because it is sold by the square foot rather than as a unit. It is the finish that reads as a renovation rather than a repair, and it is the only practical route to the curbless or oversized walk-in shower that so many Tampa remodels are actually after. Porcelain in particular is dense and near-impervious, which is a real advantage in a room that stays humid, and the tile itself is among the longest-lived surfaces in a house.
What you give up: You are buying an assembly, not a product: the tile is the easy part and the waterproofing behind it is the part that fails, invisibly and expensively, if it is done badly — and in this climate a wall cavity that gets wet does not get a dry season to recover in. Grout lines are permanent maintenance and the place mildew shows first. It is the slowest wet-wall option to install, which matters when a condo board has given you a window to work in. Frameless glass is the usual partner to a tiled walk-in and it will show every hard-water spot unless somebody squeegees it.
Typical lifespan: InterNACHI's life-expectancy chart puts ceramic wall tile at 70 years and up and tile flooring at 75 to 100. Read that as a statement about the tile only — the waterproofing, the grout and the caulk are on much shorter clocks, and the same chart rates interior caulking at 5 to 10 years. Those are what you will actually be maintaining.
Upkeep: Seal the grout on a cycle, run the exhaust fan every single time, and re-caulk the changes of plane — corners, and where the wall meets the tub or the shower base. Those joints are caulk rather than grout on purpose, and they are meant to be replaced when they crack. The EPA's guidance on mould is the short version of why the fan matters: control the moisture and you control the growth.

Acrylic or fiberglass tub-and-surround

Good at: The fastest and least expensive way to make a bathroom usable again, which is why it is the standard answer for a refresh. Few or no grout lines is a genuine durability argument in a humid house rather than only a cleaning one — there is far less porous joint for mildew to take hold in. Warm underfoot, wipes clean in a minute, and installs in a day or two rather than a week.
What you give up: It comes in fixed sizes and a short list of finishes, so it will look like a fixture rather than a design decision, and it cannot solve an awkward room or deliver a curbless entry. The surface scratches and dulls with time and cannot be scoured back to new. And a genuine one-piece unit rarely fits through the door of an existing house — in a remodel you are usually getting a multi-piece version with seams, or a wall has to come out, and in a mid-rise condo the delivery path is the elevator and the corridor rather than the driveway.
Typical lifespan: InterNACHI rates tubs and shower enclosures at roughly 50 years. In practice the finish dates long before the unit fails: most of these are replaced because the room looks tired, not because anything broke.
Upkeep: Non-abrasive cleaners only — a scouring pad permanently dulls the finish. No grout to seal; re-caulk the perimeter joint when it discolors, and do not wait, because that joint is the one path water has into the wall behind it.

Quartz vanity top

Good at: An engineered slab that is non-porous, so unlike natural stone it never needs sealing — one less maintenance ritual in a room that already asks for several — and it shrugs off the toothpaste, cosmetics and hair products that stain a bathroom top. Consistent color from sample to slab, and it takes an undermount or integrated sink so there is no rim to clean around.
What you give up: It costs meaningfully more than laminate for a surface most guests will never touch. The resin binder is heat-sensitive, so a flat iron left face-down can mark it permanently, and some colors are not rated for direct sun — worth asking about for a top under a bright Florida window. Slab minimums mean a small powder-room top can price out of proportion to its size, and long runs will show a seam. In a condo, ask how the slab reaches your floor before you fall in love with a heavy one.
Typical lifespan: InterNACHI puts stone countertops in the century-and-up band, and engineered quartz is not broken out separately on the chart. Treat it as longer than you will own the house rather than as a precise figure — it will outlast the cabinet under it either way.
Upkeep: Wipe it down. No sealing, no refinishing. Keep hot tools on a mat and keep drain cleaner off the surface.

Laminate vanity top

Good at: The least expensive top by a wide margin, in a pattern range no other material matches, light enough that one person can set it, and genuinely hard to pick out at a glance in a powder room. In a rental, a seasonal unit, a secondary bath or a room you expect to redo again, it is the rational choice rather than the cheap one.
What you give up: Water is the enemy at exactly two places — the seams and the exposed edge — and once the particleboard core swells, the top is replaced rather than repaired. That failure mode is the one this climate is hardest on, and hardest of all in a unit that sits closed and unconditioned for part of the year. It scorches, it cannot be undermounted, so you get a drop-in sink and its rim, and the edge profile is where the eye lands if someone is looking for the shortcut.
Typical lifespan: Roughly 20 to 30 years on InterNACHI's chart, the shortest-lived surface on this page — and shorter than that in a bathroom where the edge nearest the sink stays wet.
Upkeep: Keep standing water off the seams and the backsplash joint, re-caulk where the top meets the wall, and never set a hot tool down on it.

Lifespan and upkeep sources: InterNACHI — Standard Estimated Life Expectancy Chart for Homes · US EPA — A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home · HomeAdvisor — Bathroom Remodel Cost guide · Angi — Tub-to-Shower Conversion Cost guide

What a bath remodel actually changes

The two conditions side by side — what is usually being torn out, and what gets built back. Typical of the projects this guide prices, not of any one house.

Rebuilding a bath that has outlived its waterproofing

Before

A wet area holding water in rather than keeping it out

Grout and caulk lines that have opened, so water reaches the substrate behind the tile instead of running off it.
A tub or surround set on a substrate installed before sheet and liquid waterproofing membranes were common behind tile.
An exhaust fan that is undersized, or ducted into the attic instead of outside, so the room stays damp long after the shower stops.

After

A wet area rebuilt where the water actually goes

A waterproofed shower and tub surround — membrane or foam board behind the tile, not tile set straight onto drywall.
An exhaust fan sized for the room and ducted to the outdoors, which is what keeps moisture from staying in the assembly.
Layout and fixtures settled while the walls are open, which is the only point at which blocking for grab bars, a curbless entry or a moved drain costs what it should.

What changes: The room stops being a slow moisture problem, and the accessibility decisions that are expensive to retrofit get made while they are cheap.

Describes the condition typically being replaced and a down-to-the-substrate rebuild. It is not a record of one home, and no photograph here is of a specific project.

Sources: U.S. EPA — A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home · U.S. Department of Energy, Building America Solution Center — Bathroom Exhaust Fans · U.S. Access Board — ADA Accessibility Standards (608 shower compartments, 609 grab bars)

Cost by project scope

Typical installed range by scope, Tampa, FL. What you are doing to the room sets the row; how you finish it moves you within the row.

Project scope	What it usually covers	Typical range
Refresh — tub and surround	New tub or surround, fixtures, paint and lighting. Layout untouched, walls stay closed.	$3,027 – $10,090
Midrange remodel (most common)	New tile, vanity, top, fixtures and floor — everything you see, with the plumbing left where it is.	$10,090 – $25,225
Full gut renovation	Down to the studs: new layout, plumbing and electrical rough-in, inspections, everything replaced.	$25,225 – $80,720
Tub-to-shower conversion — a different project	One tub out, a walk-in shower in, same footprint. Priced from its own band, not as a smaller remodel.	$1,211 – $15,135

The first three rows are one ladder: same room, progressively more of it replaced. The fourth row is not a fourth rung — a tub-to-shower conversion is a different kind of project in the same footprint, carrying its own band, which is why it can land under a refresh when it is a prefab kit and well above one when it is a tiled walk-in with new glass.

That fourth row does more work in Tampa than in most metros. Florida has one of the oldest population profiles in the country, and a step-in shower, a curbless entry, blocking in the walls for grab bars and comfort-height fixtures are ordinary requests here rather than specialist ones. Read the low end of that band as a prefab kit, not as a lesser project: a properly sloped curbless entry with a linear drain is a floor job, and it prices toward the top of the band or past it.

Where you fall inside any row is mostly the layout answer. Leave every fixture in place and you sit near the bottom of the tier; move the toilet or the shower drain and you take on demolition, new drain and vent work and an inspection — the work that quietly moves a midrange remodel into gut pricing. On a slab-on-grade house that demolition is concrete, which is the local version of the same rule and a firmer one.

What moves your number in Tampa

Whether the plumbing moves — and whether it is in a slab

Keeping every fixture where it is is the largest saving available in a bath project, and it is free. Relocating a toilet, tub or shower drain means opening the floor, running new drain and vent lines, and an inspected plumbing permit. In a Tampa house built on a concrete slab there is no crawlspace to work from, so "opening the floor" means saw-cutting the slab, trenching, re-pouring and re-finishing it — a separate trade, a separate line item and a hard stop on schedule while it cures. That is routinely the difference between the midrange row and the gut row above it. If you are undecided, have every contractor bid it both ways.

Tampa labor and materials

The RSMeans City Cost Index composite we apply for this metro sits about 2.5% below the national average — a Sun Belt market with predominantly non-union residential trades and a deep contractor base — and every range on this page has already been localized by it. That is a market average, not your bid: a single crew's backlog moves a price further than the index does, and in a market with a seasonal population the backlog moves through the year.

Humidity, ventilation, and where the fan actually ducts to

This is the durability decision in a Gulf-coast bathroom and it is one of the cheapest lines on the estimate. Two things matter. First, the fan has to be sized for the room rather than inherited from whatever was there — an undersized fan in a bathroom with a walk-in shower is doing half a job. Second, and more often wrong, it has to duct to the OUTSIDE: a fan that dumps into the attic or into a soffit is moving the moisture from a room you can see into a cavity you cannot, which is how insulation, sheathing and drywall end up hosting mould. The EPA's mould guidance is blunt about the principle — control moisture and you control the growth. Ask each bidder, in writing, where the duct terminates and whether the run is insulated, and treat a bid that is silent about ventilation as one that has quietly saved money in the wrong place.

Concrete block walls and a slab floor

A great deal of postwar Tampa housing is concrete block with a stucco exterior on a slab, and that changes small decisions that are free in a wood-framed house. A recessed shower niche in an exterior block wall is not a stud bay you open — it needs furring, a build-out or relocation to an interior partition. Blocking for grab bars is straightforward in an interior stud wall and a different conversation in block. Running new supply or electrical through an exterior wall usually means furring it out and losing an inch or two of room. None of this is exotic and every experienced local crew has an answer for it — but the answer costs something, and the cheapest bid is often the one that has not looked at which walls are block.

If the bathroom is in a condo or a 55-plus community

A very large share of this market's housing sits in association-governed buildings and communities, and there the association is a line item. Expect some combination of approval before work starts, certificates of insurance from every trade, restricted work hours, freight-elevator reservations for deliveries and debris, and a scheduled riser shut-off if the job touches supply lines — often a short window, sometimes weeks out, occasionally the reason a crew has to come back twice. Some communities also restrict work during the season when the most residents are in residence. None of it changes the tile you chose; all of it changes the schedule, and a schedule the crew does not control is priced in. Get the rules in hand before you take bids, and give every bidder the same copy.

Aging-in-place scope

Curbless entry, a bench, a handheld on a slide bar, comfort-height fixtures, blocking behind the walls for grab bars and a lever door handle are all mainstream requests in this metro rather than special-order ones — which is good news, because a crew that does them weekly prices them realistically. The cost split is worth knowing: blocking and rough-in are inexpensive while the walls are open and expensive as a return visit, whereas the curbless floor is the genuine premium because the slope, the drain and the waterproofing all have to be right. If aging in place is anywhere in your ten-year plan, the blocking is the line item to add now even if the grab bars go in later.

Licensing, permits and inspections

Florida regulates construction trades at the state level through the Department of Business and Professional Regulation, and plumbers and contractors are licensed there rather than city by city — which makes verification easy and worth doing: ask for the license number and check it against the state's own record rather than a business card or a website badge. Permits are the local half, administered by your city or county, and the specifics depend on your scope and your address. The durable rule is the same one everywhere: swapping fixtures like-for-like is generally treated differently from adding, altering or relocating plumbing or electrical, and the licensed trade pulls the permit. We deliberately do not print a threshold here, because these rules change — ask each bidder to confirm in writing which permits their number includes and who is scheduling the inspections, then confirm it with the jurisdiction. Unpermitted bathroom work is a disclosure problem when you sell, not only a code one.

Fixture and surface tier

Finish level moves you within a row rather than between rows. A tiled walk-in with frameless glass, a stone top and a name-brand fixture set puts you at the top of your tier; a prefab surround, a stock vanity and builder-grade fixtures put you at the bottom of the same one.

Sources: Florida DBPR, Construction Industry Licensing Board — license types and verification · US EPA — A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home

How people pay for a bath remodel

A project in this range is more often paid for over time than out of savings, and the route you take changes what it ends up costing. These are the ones people actually use, and they are not interchangeable.

Where we stand: We are not a lender and we do not arrange, broker or earn anything from financing. Nothing here is an offer of credit or a recommendation — it is background on how projects this size are usually paid for, so you can ask better questions of the people bidding on yours.

Credit the contractor arranges: Many home-improvement firms can set up financing for the job at the point of sale, through a lender they already work with. The paperwork happens alongside the contract rather than at a bank.; The tradeoff: It is the least comparable of the routes, because you usually see one option rather than several — and a plan sold as promotional can convert to ordinary interest, sometimes backdated to the start, if the balance is not cleared in time. Get the full terms in writing before the contract is signed, not after.
Borrowing against the home: A home equity loan is a fixed amount taken as a lump sum; a home equity line of credit (HELOC) is a revolving line you draw on. The FTC describes both as second mortgages when you already have a first one.; The tradeoff: Your house is the collateral, so falling behind puts the home itself at risk — this is the route with the most serious downside and it belongs on a list with the others precisely so that is visible. Federal law gives you until midnight of the third business day to cancel credit secured by your home.
An unsecured personal loan: A fixed sum from a bank, credit union or online lender, repaid on a schedule, with nothing pledged against it. Nothing about the loan is tied to the project, so the money is yours to spend on whichever bid you accept.; The tradeoff: Unsecured credit costs more than credit backed by an asset, and what you are offered depends on your own credit history. The upside of the same fact is real: nobody can take the house over it.
Manufacturer and utility programs: Product manufacturers run seasonal promotions through their certified installers, and utilities and state energy offices run rebate and low-cost loan programs for efficiency work. Both are worth asking about because both are invisible unless you do.; The tradeoff: They are conditional and they expire — tied to particular products, particular efficiency ratings, an application filed before the work starts, or a window of dates. A promotion is a reason to check eligibility, never a reason to choose a contractor.

What to ask every bidder

Who actually lends the money, and are you paid anything for placing it?The firm selling the work and the firm holding the debt are usually not the same company, and the answer tells you who to call when something goes wrong.
What is the total I will have repaid by the end, in dollars?One number, comparable across every bid. The monthly payment is not comparable — it can be lowered by stretching the term, which raises the total.
If this is a promotional plan, what happens if I have not paid it off when the promotion ends?Some plans charge the interest that accrued during the promotional period all at once. A firm that cannot answer this plainly, in writing, has told you something.
What is the price if I pay without financing?If the two prices differ, the difference is part of what the credit costs. Ask for both on the same written quote, so the bids stay comparable.

Sources: FTC Consumer Advice — Home Equity Loans and Home Equity Lines of Credit · CFPB — What is the difference between a home equity loan and a home equity line of credit?

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Do bathroom remodels pay back at resale?

Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value data has consistently put a midrange bathroom remodel ahead of an upscale one on cost recouped — the money spent past the midrange tier is the money least likely to come back. Treat a bath project as something you are buying for the years you live with it, with a partial credit at resale, rather than as an investment.

The narrower Tampa argument is condition rather than percentage, and humidity is what makes it sharper here than elsewhere. Stained grout, a mildewed ceiling around a fan that never worked, or soft drywall at the base of a shower wall are the details a buyer's inspector goes looking for in this climate, and they get priced into the negotiation whether or not you priced them first. Work that fixes a defect reads as a defect fixed; a second or third bath brought up to date reads as taste, and taste is what buyers discount.

In a condo or a 55-plus community the comparison is unusually direct: the bathrooms are most of what distinguishes your unit from the near-identical one two doors down on the same listing site. It is also a market with a real share of downsizing and retiring buyers, for whom a well-executed step-in shower is a feature rather than a compromise — provided it was built as a design decision and not as a medical retrofit.

Six ways Tampa homeowners keep the number down

Keep the plumbing where it is. If the layout works, the cheapest good bathroom is the one that stays in its footprint — and on a slab it is also the one that never turns into concrete work.
Do not economize on the ventilation. A correctly sized fan ducted to the outside is one of the smallest lines on the estimate and the one with the most influence on whether the room still looks new in ten years. It is the wrong place to save, and the easy place for a low bid to have saved.
Have all three contractors price the same scope, not three different ones. A spread tells you nothing if one bid moved the shower, one replaced the fan and ran a new duct, and the third assumed both were somebody else's problem.
Get the association's rules before the bids, if you are in a condo or a 55-plus community. Work hours, elevator reservations, insurance certificates and the shut-off procedure change what a crew has to plan around, and a contractor who learns them after pricing the job charges for the surprise.
Add the blocking while the walls are open. Backing for grab bars, a future bench or a handheld bar costs very little during rough-in and a great deal as a return visit that opens finished tile. Even if you never use it, the next owner might.
Ask when their calendar is soft. Good bath crews book four to eight weeks out, and in a metro with a seasonal population the busy stretch is not the same for every crew — so ask each one rather than assuming. A start date you are flexible on is the one lever a contractor can price against without cutting scope.

Where these numbers come from

Methodology. A baseline range for each project scope is adjusted for your area by a Tampa, FL labor and materials multiplier. Both inputs are cited below, straight from the rows that produced the figures on this page. Ranges are typical costs, not quotes: your final price depends on your bathroom, what is behind its walls, and the bids you collect. Contractors cannot pay to change the numbers we publish.

This page's figures are priced from ZIP 33602, which resolves to Tampa, FL (multiplier ×1.009).

Baseline: Angi — Bathroom Remodel Cost (updated Jul 9, 2026), "Cost by Project Scope": Partial remodel = $10,000–$25,000 ("replacing at least one of the three main bathroom fixtures"). Mapped to the funnel's middle tier, "Midrange remodel".
Regional multiplier: Derived: BEA Regional Price Parities, all items, Tampa-St. Petersburg-Clearwater, FL (MSA) = 100.890 (2024) ÷ 100. Published metro price-level index (FRED series RPPALL45300) on the same national-is-1.000 scale the state tier uses; a consumer price-level proxy, not a construction cost index.
Figures retrieved: 2026-09-06

Full methodology →

Tampa bathroom remodel cost FAQs

What does a bathroom remodel cost in Tampa in 2026?

Most Tampa homeowners doing a midrange full-bath remodel land inside the typical range shown above — new tile, vanity, top and fixtures with the layout unchanged. A refresh sits below it and a full gut renovation above it; the scope table on this page prices each separately rather than averaging them into one number.

Why is Tampa slightly below the national average?

Every figure on this page is a national band adjusted by a regional multiplier, and Tampa's sits about 2.5% below 1.0 — the multiplier and its source are printed in the methodology section. It is a Sun Belt market with predominantly non-union residential trades and a deep pool of contractors competing for bath work. Treat it as a market average rather than a discount you are owed: it moves the baseline by a couple of percent, while the scope you choose moves it by multiples.

My house is concrete block on a slab. Does that change the price?

Not for a like-for-like remodel, and quite a lot for anything that moves. With no crawlspace under the floor, relocating a toilet or a shower drain means saw-cutting the slab, trenching, re-pouring and re-finishing — extra trades, an inspection and cure time in the schedule. Block walls also change the small stuff: a recessed niche or new pipe in an exterior block wall needs furring or a build-out rather than an open stud bay. Ask each bidder which of your walls are block and how they are handling the niche and the blocking.

How much does moving the plumbing add?

There is no single figure, because it depends on what is under your floor and how far the drain has to travel. The direction is reliable, though: relocating a toilet, tub or shower drain adds demolition, new drain and vent work and an inspection, and it is the most common reason a midrange remodel prices like a gut renovation. On a slab that demolition is concrete rather than subfloor, which makes the gap wider here than in a wood-framed house. Have every contractor bid it both ways so you can see your own number.

What kind of exhaust fan does a Tampa bathroom need?

One sized for the room rather than inherited from whatever was there, and — this is the part that is most often wrong — ducted to the outside rather than into the attic or a soffit. A fan that discharges into a cavity relocates the moisture instead of removing it, and the EPA's mould guidance is clear that controlling moisture is what controls the growth. Sizing rules depend on the room and the fixtures, so ask your contractor to state the model, the airflow rating and where the duct terminates, in writing, rather than taking a number from an internet rule of thumb.

Do I need a permit, and how do I check my contractor's license?

The license half is the easy half: Florida licenses construction trades at the state level through the Department of Business and Professional Regulation, so ask for the number and verify it against the state's own record rather than a business card. Permits are administered locally by your city or county and depend on your scope and address. The durable rule is that swapping fixtures like-for-like is generally treated differently from adding, altering or relocating plumbing or electrical, and the licensed trade pulls the permit. We deliberately do not print a threshold, because these rules change — get each bidder to confirm in writing what your scope requires and who is scheduling the inspections, then confirm that with the jurisdiction.

What changes if I'm in a condo or a 55-plus community?

The building becomes part of the job. Expect association approval before work starts, insurance certificates from each trade, restricted work hours, a freight-elevator reservation for deliveries and debris, and — if supply lines are touched — a scheduled riser shut-off that the association controls rather than your contractor. Some communities also limit work during their busiest season. Nothing there changes your finishes; all of it changes the calendar, and a schedule the crew does not control gets priced in. Get the rules in writing before you take bids and give every bidder the same copy.

Is a tub-to-shower conversion cheaper than a remodel, and should I keep a tub?

Usually cheaper, because it is a smaller project rather than a discounted version of a bigger one — it carries its own band in the scope table above. A prefab kit conversion in the existing footprint sits at the low end of that band; a curbless tiled walk-in with a new sloped base, waterproofing and glass runs to the top of it or beyond, because the floor is the work. Conversions are a mainstream request in this metro rather than a niche one. On the tub question, conventional resale advice is to keep at least one in the house, so in a one-bathroom home the case is weaker; in a second or third bath the walk-in shower is almost always the more used fixture and the easier one to keep clean.